Watch Me Design my Fashion Collection- Part 4
This design series captures my design process for creating a clothing collection and line. I will share my sketching, tech pack, prototype, and final production sampling process.
Watch the video on this page, or continue reading for part 4 of this series, where cover the more dressy pieces I designed for this line. This is the last and final post of this series!
Here are links to the rest of this series:
RUFFLE KIMONO
Sketch
I created this sketch in the Procreate App on the iPad.
This ruffle kimono has two self-spaghetti tie details, handkerchief body and sleeve hems, and cascading flounces, and tiers. The fabric is a floral printed mesh, which tends to drape beautifully.
Tech Pack
The first stage of the sampling process was to create Tech Packs. A Tech Pack (short for "Technical Package") is the instruction manual with all design, construction, and materials information. Here's an example of my construction detail page.
Because mesh fabric is a delicate knit, I requested a purl stitch for all hems.
Prototype Review
Here is the first prototype. My feedback was the flounces, especially towards the top of the body, were flat and not pronounced enough. Also, the silhouette was too boxy; I wanted the design to cinch a bit at the bust seam. Additionally, a high-low handkerchief silhouette was missing at the body hem.
To illustrate these updates, I drew over the initial prototype in Procreate on the iPad.
Production Sample
Here is the final production sample. I love how this piece can be worn to dress up a casual outfit. I could also see myself wearing this as a beach cover-up.
Here’s what I learned about working with mesh fabric:
Mesh fabric is unstructured and open, with lots of holes. Because this style has lots of flounces and tiers, the mesh became weighed down and stretched in length. This caused the sample to be longer than expected. In hindsight, I would have shortened the length in anticipation that the fabric would grow. Nonetheless, it’s still a great style and as a customer, I would size down.
Check out the product listing here.
RUFFLE PANT
Sketch
These mesh pants were originally designed as a matching set with the ruffle kimono. These pants are one of my favorite designs of the entire collection. I feel it’s rare to find pants that are this novel and fun.
Tech Pack
Like the kimono, the pants have a subtle hi-low hem detail, are hemmed with a purl stitch, and feature circular-cut flounces.
Prototype Review
Here is the first prototype. The top of the pants looked pretty solid, but the bottom half gave me cause for worry. From what I could infer from the photo, the panels between the flounces were too narrow, causing the pant to twist tightly around the leg. I asked to open the panels for a slight flare silhouette, so the pant would skim the body from the hip to the ankle, without catching on the leg.
Also, the front and back rise was too short, causing bunching in the crotch area.
Production Sample
I LOVE the final sample! These pants are so comfortable, feminine, and flowy. The flounces cascade and bounce around beautifully with movement. Shop here.
MESH DITSY DRESS
Sketch
This dress has a subtle a-line silhouette, asymmetric neckline with scalloped trim, ruched midsection, and cap sleeves. For consistency, I wanted this in a floral mesh but in a smaller scale disty print.
Tech Pack
I always spend a lot of time on my construction page. Here is where I make my design intention clear and call out and specific details that I want the factory to follow.
Prototype Review
The prototype sample needed some work. The neckline shape was adjusted, the ruching at the midsection was increased, and the sleeve hems were made more angular.
I wanted to make sure the neckline registered as intentionally asymmetric. When asymmetry is too subtle, it can often look like a mistake. I pushed the proportions in the “after” photo for more intentional asymmetry.
Production Sample
This is super cute and feminine but I wish I made the design either 1) symmetrical or 2) more obviously asymmetrical with a one-shoulder detail and/ or uneven hem. Reading the customer reviews, I learned some didn’t register the intentional asymmetry of the design.
In general, I was happy with the final result as it’s very flattering on the body.
Check out the product listing and reviews here.
METALLIC BABYDOLL DRESS
Sketch
Here’s a one-shoulder tea-length babydoll dress with metallic pleated fabric and a draped front detail.
Tech Pack
Nothing is worse than when a strapless dress keeps falling. Since this is a semi-strapless dress, I wanted to make sure it would stay in place on the body. An interior mesh-boned bodice usually does the trick because it provides enough structure to keep the dress up.
Unfortunately, I had to cancel this detail because of cost. As a workaround, I opted to add silicone gripper elastic to the top edge of the bodice. This worked like a charm! The silicone grips to the skin and the dress can stay in place all night long. I’m happy with this solution because it’s more comfortable and simple than an interior-boned bodice.
This technique worked because the fabric was light enough to be supported by just the silicone tape and the shoulder detail helped support some of the weight of the dress. If the dress was heavier, it would require more structured construction.
Prototype Review
The first prototype was in this beautiful caramel pleated velvet. I loved this fabric but since the season was Spring, I requested to change to a rose gold metallic pleated fabric instead.
Other edits: Update bust panel draping, increase sweep dramatically.
Production Sample
I’m obsessed with this dress! It’s so elegant and super comfortable. Check it out here.
OPEN BACK TRAPEZE DRESS
Sketch
Here’s a tiered trapeze dress with open back and neck-tie detail.
Tech Pack
Prototype Review
Here are my comments:
• Updated the silhouette to be trapeze shape, not fit-and-flare at the waist
• Lengthened sleeve at second tier, removed seam at the sleeve cap
• Cancelled the draping at the neck (didn’t feel confident in its execution.)
Production Sample
I love how the final sample came out. So cute and feminine. This style sold out!
CONCLUSION
These designs are available to shop for a limited time! Here are the links:
RUFFLE KIMONO
RUFFLE PANT
MESH DITSY DRESS
BABYDOLL DRESS
OPEN BACK TRAPEZE DRESS
If you enjoyed this blog post, check out my FREE e-book:
Fashion Strategy + Tactics
This e-book includes an email series with the below info:
1.) Defining a brand with a unique mission, purpose, communication style, and visual identity that resonates with your target customer
2.) Finding opportunity to provide value to a specific group of people or target market
3.) Researching and learning more about your target market or customer
4.) Defining a concept for your collection including season, line plan, theme, color, fabric, prints, embellishments, silhouettes, and other design details.
5.) Brainstorming design ideas that are consistent with your brand and create value for your customer
6.) A beginner's road map to learning how to draw fashion designs including links to free courses and tools