Watch Me Design my Fashion Collection- Part 2
As a freelance fashion designer, I design for different brands. The projects and clients vary and every year is different. I prefer this to a full-time designer I like to keep things fresh and interesting.
In this blog series, I share my freelance work for the online retailer—Shein.com. This is part 2 of a 4 part series where I capture how I sketch designs, comment on prototype samples, and review final production samples.
In this post I wanted to design a group jackets and blazers that were comfortable and versatile enough to be worn casually or professionally. I played with novelty prints and fabrics, like plaids and satins.
I loved the idea of designing suit sets that felt youthful, playful, and dare I say—sexy. So many suit sets are stuffy and boring. I wanted to challenge that and design pieces that didn’t make you want to yawn.
As with any design project, I faced challenges. Some details didn't work out, fabrics weren't perfect, and I had to adjust fit and proportions to achieve my ideal aesthetic. However, I'm proud of the final result and excited to share with you.
To watch the process, click on the video on this page.
Here are links to the rest of this series:
SMOCKED SUIT SET
Sketch
I created this sketch in the Procreate App on the iPad.
For this design, I wanted to:
1) Work with a playful fabric— a whimsical plaid that would inspire, let’s say, an outdoor brunch after a business meeting.
2) Incorporate an unexpected detail that you wouldn’t normally find in a blazer. I loved the idea of doing puff sleeves and smocked cuffs. Feminine but also cool…
3) Add smocking to increase stretch capacity to make this design more wearable across various body types. Let’s be honest, nobody wants to wear a stiff ass suit.
Tech Pack
Originally, this design had stretch smocking at the back waist. To preserve the utility of the smocking detail, I opted for a half lining that overlaps at the back (the overlap detail would provide more ease across the back as the wearer moves her arms.)
Ultimately, none of this mattered because the smocking at the back was removed and the lining was updated to a full lining. Sorry if this is too much information. I tend to nerd out on the details.
Prototype Review
Here is the first prototype— pretty good.
The chest area was looking broad and wide. Since the smocking and extra fabric in the puff sleeves would provide extra ease, I thought I could get away with reducing the across chest measurement. I also increased the collar and the lapels which would further offset the wide appearance of the chest.
Additionally, I increased the pocket flaps (proportionally they seemed small for the jacket.) I also dropped the pocket flaps. For some reason, when pocket flaps are too high, I think they look “up-tight” and nerdy. I can’t tell you why…it’s just a feeling. One of life’s many mysteries.
The ruffle at the sleeve hem was giving me the heebie-jeebies so I reduced the height for a more subtle appearance.
Production Sample
Here is the final production sample styled together and separately. This piece is one of the most popular from the collection.
Love how the shorts look on their own with a simple tank. This can be styled with strappy sandals or converses for a low-key vibe.
Here is the link to shop.
PLAID SUIT SET
Sketch
Since Shein is a fast-fashion brand, I wanted to incorporate trends tastefully. For this piece, I wanted to register an oversized argyle plaid, similar to the ones hitting the runway but in more tonal colors.
I aimed to create this look in a fabric that was comfy and stretchy, while providing the structure and sharpness that one would expect from a suit. I ended up moving forward with a printed ponte fabric.
Tech Pack
I added contrast piecing at the pocket, sleeve opening, and shorts hem. I felt this would “ground” or frame the print nicely.
Prototype Review
I requested to make the fit more boxy, lower the pockets, drop the lapel break-point (where the first button is.) I felt these changes would achieve a more oversized and cool vibe (less up-tight and stuffy.)
Production Sample
Here is the final production sample styled together and separately. Here is the link to shop.
SATIN SUIT SET
Sketch
Tech Pack
This design was a bit too complicated for this project.
As you can see from the sketch there is a scarf-lapel detail that has the option to wrap around the neck. This was cute in my head, but difficult to explain and execute without a reference sample. I did my best to communicate the collar detail in the tech pack, but it ultimately wasn't enough and I had to cancel this detail.
Prototype Review
My eye went straight to the gold metal buttons. With the satin fabric, I didn’t want to add any more shiny details. I emphasized changing these to covered buttons for a more sleek and sophisticated finish.
Overall I made the fit more oversized and boxy. Notice how the size, shape, and positioning of the pockets make a huge difference in the proportions.
Hi
Production Sample
Here is the final production sample styled together and separately. Here is the link to shop.
SATIN BOMBER JACKET
Sketch
I wanted to design a bomber jacket that could elevate an outfit. I added smocking at the collar, sleeve and body hems and chose a satin fabric.
Tech Pack
Specifying pocket dimensions saves a lot of time in the long run.
Prototype Review
Overall, I was happy with the first prototype.
I changed the position of the chest pockets to be closer to the zipper, updated the sleeve pocket to be more visible from the front, reduced the neck width.
This was an available fabric…for the final sample I asked for a sage green color in a matte satin (subtle shine.)
Production Sample
Here is the final production sample. I wish the fabric was more matte, it was a bit too shiny for me, but I love the details and the color. Truly a unique piece and I’m glad it was brought to life.
Here is the link to shop.
P.S. I didn’t get away with taking these photos without my husband making fun of me…
CONCLUSION
These designs are available to shop for a limited time! Here are the links:
SMOCKED SUIT SET
PLAID SUIT SET
SATIN SUIT SET
SATIN BOMBER JACKET
If you enjoyed this blog post, check out my FREE e-book:
Fashion Strategy + Tactics
This e-book includes an email series with the below info:
1.) Defining a brand with a unique mission, purpose, communication style, and visual identity that resonates with your target customer
2.) Finding opportunity to provide value to a specific group of people or target market
3.) Researching and learning more about your target market or customer
4.) Defining a concept for your collection including season, line plan, theme, color, fabric, prints, embellishments, silhouettes, and other design details.
5.) Brainstorming design ideas that are consistent with your brand and create value for your customer
6.) A beginner's road map to learning how to draw fashion designs including links to free courses and tools